Hands

What hand-building taught me about the wheel

· By Mara Lindqvist

What hand-building taught me about the wheel

Pinch pots, scored seams and slabs that remember which way they were rolled: the table has no spin to hide behind.

I came to hand-building late, after twelve years of the wheel, and it humbled me in a way the wheel never did. There is no spin to hide behind. The clay sits on the table, the form grows from the outside in, and every join is a promise you have to keep with your fingers.

The first pinch pot I made as an adult was lumpy, thick at the base and thin at the rim, and it took me forty minutes. I kept it. It sits on the window ledge with a cactus in it, as a reminder.

A pinch pot is the oldest teacher

Start with a ball the size of a plum, press a thumb into the middle and pinch the wall between thumb and fingers, turning the ball as you go. That is the whole technique, and it contains every problem the rest of hand-building will set you: uneven thickness, a base that is too heavy, a rim that dries before the body.

Do twenty. They will get better around the eighth and worse again when you stop paying attention.

The shape arrives from the inside. You are not building a wall and hoping a pot appears; you are drawing the volume out from a core of air, and the wall follows the curve you have already decided on. If you cannot picture the profile, draw it on a bat before you start.

Coils need a scored, slipped seam

A coil is rolled on the table under a flat hand, from the middle outwards, until it is the thickness of a finger. Score the wall, paint it with slip, press the coil on, and work it in with a thumb on each side. The join has to be blended until you cannot find it with a fingernail.

Two coils, then rest. A wall built too fast slumps under its own weight, and a wall joined dry opens a crack at the seam in the kiln that no glaze will fill.

Slabs want a soft hand and a straight edge

Roll slabs between two battens on a cloth, cut them with a ruler, and let them firm up before you lift. A slab is not a sheet of pastry. It has a direction from the rolling, and it will remember which way you bent it.

Joints on slabs get the same score and slip as coils, plus a coil pressed into the inside corner where nobody will see it. A box built without that inner fillet is a box that will split at the base.

Slab work also wants a support while it firms: a rolled newspaper tube under a curved section, a bag of sand inside a hollow form, a board under an overhang. Take the support out only when the clay has stopped wanting to move.

Dry slowly, and cover everything

Hand-built work has more joins and more uneven thickness than thrown work, and it dries accordingly. A plastic bag over the piece for the first two days, opened a little more each day, costs nothing and saves most of it. Rushing a slab box to the shelf is how a fortnight of work becomes a pile of shards.

What it changed at the wheel

Hand-building taught me thickness. It taught me to feel a wall as a volume rather than a profile, and to know when a form is asking to be left alone. Both of those have made me a slower, better thrower, and a much better judge of when a pot is already finished.

It also gave me back the beginning. Every so often the wheel becomes a performance; the table never does.